Building a Hoodie Size Chart: Points of Measure and Grading

Why you cannot borrow a size chart

A size chart describes one specific garment. It encodes that garment's block — the base pattern the brand cuts from — its intended ease, and its fabric's behaviour. Copy the numbers onto a different block in a different fleece and they describe nothing.

The mismatch shows up worst on hoodies because ease varies so much by style. A fitted hoodie and a boxy oversized one can both be "medium" and differ by 15 cm in chest width. A customer who owns one and buys the other has no way to predict what will arrive, and your returns rate carries the cost of that.

Your chart should be measured off your own approved sample, in the fabric you are actually producing, after it has been washed. Anything else is a guess dressed up as data.

The points of measure to publish

Publish flat measurements — the garment laid flat, measured across — rather than body measurements, and say clearly which you are giving. Flat measurements are unambiguous and a customer can check them against a hoodie they already own, which is the single most effective returns reducer available to a small brand.

• Chest width, measured flat 2.5 cm below the armhole
• Body length, from the high point of the shoulder straight down to the hem
• Sleeve length, from centre back neck to cuff — state the method, because sleeve-seam-to-cuff gives a different number
• Shoulder width, or a note that the style is drop-shoulder
• Cuff opening and hem width, which tell the customer how the garment closes at the extremities

How grading works

Grading is the rule that generates every other size from your base. You pick a base size — usually medium — and define how much each measurement changes per size step.

On hoodies a typical grade is 5 cm on chest width per size and 2 to 2.5 cm on body length, with sleeve length moving about 1.5 cm. Those are starting points, not laws: a boxy oversized fit often grades more on width and less on length, because the silhouette matters more than the coverage.

The mistake to avoid is grading everything proportionally. Bodies do not scale uniformly — an XXL customer is substantially wider than a small customer but only somewhat taller. Grade width generously and length conservatively, or your largest sizes turn into dresses.

Fit is settled on a physical sample, not a spreadsheet — samples run in 7–10 days through our sampling and prototyping.

Oversized and boxy fits

Oversized is a pattern decision, not a sizing decision, and the distinction is the thing most first-time brands get wrong. Selling a large labelled as a medium is not an oversized fit; it is a mislabelled garment, and the sleeves will be too long for the person the chest now fits.

A proper oversized hoodie changes the relationship between the measurements. The body gets wider without getting proportionally longer, the shoulder seam drops deliberately down the arm, the sleeve shortens to compensate for the dropped shoulder, and the armhole deepens. Done properly, an oversized medium fits a medium customer in a deliberately roomy way — which is what the customer actually wants.

Heavier fleece suits this better. A 400 GSM or heavier fabric has the body to hold a boxy shape; the same pattern in 240 GSM French terry drapes and reads as baggy rather than structured.

Shrinkage: measure after wash, always

Cotton fleece shrinks, mostly in length, and mostly on the first wash. Depending on the knit and whether the fabric has been pre-shrunk, you can expect a few per cent — enough to turn a correct body length into a short one.

The specification must state whether measurements are before or after washing, and it should be after. The factory then cuts the pattern oversized so the garment finishes at your intended dimensions once it has been through the process. If your tech pack does not say, the assumption may not be the one you wanted, and the difference is several centimetres of body length.

This matters more on washed and garment-dyed programs, where the garment goes through additional wet processing and shrinks further. On those, finished-after-wash dimensions are not a nicety — they are the only measurements that mean anything.